Fabric library

Fabrics we cut, and how to choose yours

Every garment starts as a fabric decision, and it is the single biggest lever on how the piece hangs, feels, and prices. These are the fabrics we cut most on our own floor — what each one is, what it is best at, and how to pick one when you have never ordered production before.

Where the weights land

GSM is grams per square meter — the weight of the fabric. Every number on this page, on one line.

joggers & sets180light tee240heavy tee320hoodie standard400heavyweight500statement

Drag the scale to see heavier weights →

Eight fabrics do most of the work.

Texture macro — brushed fleece loft

Heavyweight cotton fleece

Knit cotton brushed on the inside for softness and loft, heavy enough to hold a silhouette instead of collapsing into it. The structured drape is what makes an oversized fit read intentional.

400–500 GSM · hoodies, heavyweight sets, statement pieces

Texture macro — loopback interior

French terry

A loopback knit — soft loops inside instead of brushing — that sits lighter than fleece and drapes better. The year-round choice, and what most warm-climate drops are built on.

Mid-weight · hoodies, joggers, lighter sets

Texture macro — jersey knit face

Combed ring-spun cotton jersey

The tee fabric. Combing removes the short fibers that cause pilling and fading, so a well-spun lighter tee outlives a cheap heavier one — it is the difference buyers feel but cannot name.

180–260 GSM · t-shirts, from classic to boxy

Texture macro — blend weave

Cotton-poly blend

Cotton hand-feel with polyester's durability and shape retention. Balanced stretch, holds up to repeated washing, and takes print well.

Everyday tees, joggers, uniform programs

Texture macro — stretch knit, stretched

Performance poly-spandex

Moisture-wicking four-way stretch that recovers its shape and takes sublimation at full saturation. At 200 GSM and above with 12% spandex it stays opaque under stretch.

88/12 at 200–220 GSM · activewear, jerseys, training kit

Texture macro — ripstop grid

Ripstop nylon

A technical shell woven with a reinforcement grid that stops tears from spreading. Light, wind-resistant, and coated where the design needs weather protection.

Windbreakers, shells, technical outerwear

Texture macro — waffle grid

Waffle knit

A textured thermal-weight knit whose grid traps warmth without fleece's bulk. Reads elevated up close, which is why it carries premium basics.

Thermal-weight · elevated basics and layering pieces

Texture macro — ottoman cords

Ottoman rib

A heavyweight ribbed knit with pronounced horizontal cords. Structure is the point — it holds a collar or a boxy body exactly where the pattern put it.

Structured crewnecks, collars, trims

How to choose

Four rules that settle most fabric decisions.

Start from the garment, not the fabric

A hoodie, a tee, and a windbreaker each have two or three fabrics that make sense — the garment shortlists for you. Tell us what you are making and the conversation gets short.

Weight sets the drape

Around 180 GSM is tee territory, 300–340 is the jogger and set sweet spot, 400+ is heavyweight structure, and 500 is a statement. Heavier hangs; lighter moves.

The yarn matters as much as the number

Two fabrics at the same GSM can feel completely different. Combing, ring-spinning, and knit structure decide pilling, fading, and hand-feel — which is why we talk fabrics, not just numbers.

When in doubt, sample it

A single piece in about 7 days settles what no chart can: how the fabric feels on a body, in your cut, with your print. The sample you approve is the reference the whole run is held to.

Frequently asked questions

What does GSM mean, and why does it matter?

Grams per square meter — the weight of the fabric. It drives drape, warmth, structure, and price more than any other single spec, which is why every fabric conversation starts there.

Can you dye fabric to match an exact brand color?

Yes. Send a Pantone code or a physical reference and we dye to it, with a lab dip you approve before bulk. That approval step is what keeps a color consistent across fabrics and reorders.

Can you source a fabric that isn't listed here?

Usually, yes. This page is what we cut most, not everything we can get. Send a reference garment or a spec and we'll tell you honestly whether we can source it and what it changes.

Is a heavier fabric always the better choice?

No. Above about 240 GSM on a tee, drape starts costing you as much as weight buys, and a heavy fleece in a hot market gets worn twice. The right weight is the one that fits the garment and the climate it sells into.

How do I pick a fabric if I've never ordered production before?

Send us a garment you love — yours or anyone's — and we'll identify the fabric and match it. Failing that, describe the feel you want and the sample settles it in 7–10 days.

Send your reference. We'll match it.

A photo, a Pantone code, or a garment you love — that's enough to start. We quote within 24 hours, and a single sample piece ships in about 7 days.

Fabric picks the body — decoration gives it a face. See the techniques we run →